Two of the most famous designers in the world" this afternoon: Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana - warning that they were nervous that their English wasn't good enough for such a large talk, before conceding that she was "sure they'd feel better" now they'd heard her Italian.
The designers spoke about the three tenets that have constantly appeared in their work: Famiglia, Amore, and Italianita - punctuated by beautiful films to illustrate each concept.
Despite little disagreements - "we've been designing for 25 years," "no, it's 27" - the designers spoke about their great affection for one another, perhaps even more so since the dissolution of their romantic union in 2005.
"We are in love," Stefano Gabbana said. "It's a different kind of love, but we love each other. It's a difficult word to explain, but there's no real difference in the way we work together. We have a better level of understanding and tolerance maybe since separating romantically. People are jealous of what we have: still being in love and being able to make something interesting - we are strong and that's disturbing to some people. Domenico is like my family - even though we're not a couple any more. I have a brother, a mother, and Domenico... it has been a 20-year love affair."
They also revealed that their notion of love extended to their respective families, who very much tally with the image of a typical Italian "famiglia".
"I come from a small village in Sicily," Domenico Dolce said. "For all Italian people, family is very important. We don't fight with our families."
"It's impossible; he's Sicilian!" Gabbana laughed. "And people who have worked with us for 25 years - the team we have; that's a family too."
"If they stay for six months, they have to stay forever," Dolce added.
They revealed that the strategy of ending the D&G line, which showed its last collection for spring/summer 2012 in September 2011, was met with trepidation from some quarters.
"When we decided to do it, the people [stockists] called us, going crazy - but we need to do it," Gabbana said. "Chanel has one label; Gucci; Vuitton - why do we need D&G? The people call Dolce & Gabbana 'D&G' - it is the symbol for Dolce & Gabbana, there's no need for us to have two labels."
They also revealed their thoughts on the underage model debate.
"People say: 'Models are so young, they're so skinny,'" Dolce said. "But Mr Balenciaga used models at 16 and that will never change. People say they are skinny, but there is a difference between skinny and sick. If someone is sick, they're sick. It's not because of fashion. If I have flu, I have flu; it's not because I work in fashion."
They also revealed all about their first celebrity encounter - the first star who ever wore one of their dresses: Madonna.
"We went to see her on the Blond Ambition tour, we were big fans," Gabbana said. "We were watching the show - she was wearing Jean Paul Gaultier then - and I said to Domenico: 'Imagine if one day she wore Dolce & Gabbana.' Then we picked up the paper and there she was, in one of our dresses."
And they still dress her to this day: "She's beautiful, she's mature, she's a mother - like Isabella Rossellini or Monica Bellucci. She's a real woman."
And will their red carpet presence ever make way for a couture offering, as fellow Italian label Versace has done?
"Now the D&G label and Dolce & Gabbana are one, we can have pieces from an opening price to a high price," Gabbana explained. "We have a new fine jewellery collection; one for men - and we also want to make something more special in the future, so couture? It's possible."
D&G
Spring/Summer 2012Ready-To-WearMilan
Dolce & Gabbana Spring/Summer 2012 Full Show | EXCLUSIVE
Show Report
THE last show for D&G today (since the announcement today that it is being merged into the Dolce & Gabbana mainline), could have been a sad moment but it was decidedly upbeat.
“You don’t have to be rich to be my girl,” sang Prince as the D&G spring/summer 2012 collection strode past this afternoon in Milan – and strictly speaking you don’t. Just raid your friends and families’ wardrobes (if they’re rich enough), for any Hermes scarves that you can lay your hands on, wear them altogether and you’re there.
Far more refined than the last couple of seasons, this was colourful, feminine and fun without the flippancy of last season’s teddy boys or brightly printed text dresses. The scarves, in bright swirls of pink and green; yellow, red and gold; turquoise, orange and yellow, with occasional flashes of polka dot or leopard print in the mix, were gathered around the body into ruched mini dresses, worn on top of each other for billowing layered dresses, wrapped around block heels and tied at the ankle, cut as the sleeves of a dark denim sweatshirt over silk boxer shorts of a contrasting print or worn as a sarong under a crisp white blouse.
This was no casual collection, despite the spontaneity that a tied scarf implies however – they were beautifully contrasted and all together looked like a delicious flamenco whirl – a couple of huge straw hats tied with colourful scarves (obviously), completed the look. On some, the pattern was picked out in glistening embellishment, the bling accentuated by large gold coin waterfalls tumbling from each earlobe.
If silky pyjama suits are on course as a trend next season, these are surely the most luxurious version – the tops and bottoms in contrasting prints and looking as good together as they will apart. The models trooped out together at the end as a party of loose haired, colourful gypsies - each dress a more colourful, romantic version than the last. As swan songs go, it was lovely.
The D&G design partnership sticks closely to a theme each time and they can sometimes jar with a season’s prevailing mood – but this was a nicely conceived celebration of the colourful romance we’ve enjoyed elsewhere.
Thanks to. http://www.vogue.co.uk/
No comments:
Post a Comment